David & Nadia Aristargos 2022

"The 2019 Branco, the estate flagship, is a field blend from old (centenarian) vines at 600 meters in altitude aged for 10 months in used French oak. Principal grapes include common Douro white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Cerceal, Gouveio and others. Very dry, the residual sugar is nominal and the total acidity comes in at 7.1 grams per liter. It comes in at 12.9% alcohol. Average in concentration—this is never a fat and fruity white, to be sure—this shows reasonably good structure, but there is a reductive issue on the nose. It is smoky and flinty. The rest is pretty nice, but the smoke—reduction, I presume—has to blow off. It often does with aeration or time. In the meanwhile, let's be a bit conservative. Give it some air if you open it in the near future. Call this a compromise ." - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate