South Africa
BLANKbottle Autumn Equinox 2022
"This is a blend of Weisser Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon blanc from Elgin
DISCLAIMER: I am no activist and I don't belong to any kind of organisation. I pick grapes from everywhere and respect each area for its contribution to a specific wine. In this newsletter however, I’m focusing on what Elgin does well and exploring the possible relevance of the Autumn Equinox theory. The Autumn Equinox theory… The more I learn about farming and wine, the more I wonder how the olden-day farmers decided what to plant where. Nowadays, before planting, farmers make use of professionals who scan the soil and dissect and analyse the different soil layers, physically as well as chemically. They study topographical data and in some cases make use of satellites and even drones. They construct terroir models in order to understand… Viticulturists (like Jaco Engelbrecht who works for me on a consultancy basis) also map the great Grand Cru vineyards of Europe which enables them to compare our new sites to the greats of the world.
All this is done with one goal in mind: figuring out what to plant where! Ultimately, however, they feed from decisions made in ancient times. Times when they got it right without satellites, drones and engineering surveyors. Times when they had time to observe… One such approach that was often used, is the Autumn Equinox theory. In the Northern Hemisphere the autumnal equinox falls on 22/23 September, as the sun crosses the celestial equator on its way south. In the Southern Hemisphere the Autumn equinox occurs on 20/21 March, when the sun moves back north across the equator - otherwise known as the “Harvest moon". Traditionally it marked the end of the harvest season, where they took stock of what was grown and gathered and gave thanks for what they had received. So their theory was very simple: plant whatever crop ripens a few days before, on, or after (basically as close as possible to) the Autumn Equinox. And that got me thinking about Elgin. During February and early March when the heat waves hit the Western Cape, grapes in Elgin are still green, with sugars around 16° Balling.
The vines have plenty of energy to sustain the heat and by the time the heat waves have passed, moderate temperatures take the grapes through a mild, slow ripening phase. This enables the vines to produce fully ripe grapes. And then, on the Autumn Equinox, the grapes usually have a sugar content of 21 - 23° balling, which is when we pick. So today I decided to release a mixed case of ELGIN wines (including a brand new wine in our portfolio) - stuff that ripened on 23 March, 28 March and a blend with a average picking time at the Autumn Equinox" - Winemaker' notes
BLANKbottle Orbitofrontal Cortex 2023
"Twelve different grape varieties make up the blend here, produced by Pieter Walser using his conscious mind. (There was a one-off "unconscious" assemblage as well!) Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne are all important components, creating a complex, layered white with lime, pear, rose water and orange zest flavours, a nip of tannin and a lingering finish." - Tim Atkin MW
BLANKbottle Moment of Silence 2023
"One of the bigger production wines at BLANKbottle - we're talking 20,000 bottles, folks - this is a Rhône style Wellington blend of mostly Chenin Blanc with 25% Grenache Blanc and a splash of Viognier. Pear, citrus, quince and ginger flavours are complemented by old wood ageing and a refreshing mineral core." Tim Atkin MW
BLANKbottle Familiemoord 2023
"Family Murder - is one of Pieter Walser's most famous wines, based on a true story with a happy ending about mistaken identity. Made with Grenache from Braam Marais' farm in Piekenierskloof, it's a refined, layered, fynbos-scented red with graceful tannins, lots of zip and minerality and flavours of pomegranate, strawberry and rooibos tea." - Tim Atkin MW
BLANKbottle Seelug 2023
"One hot day, during the harvest of ’22, I was sampling a little (as yet) un-named Chardonnay vineyard which a good friend had told me about. Situated on the lower slopes of the Helderberg, it overlooks False Bay. Glancing over towards the ocean that day, I could clearly see that the off-shore wind was blowing. This was good news to the Strand local I am, as the elusive off-shore wind grooms the waves, making them perfect for my local surf spot. I made a mental note to get a move-on with my sampling, no time to lose. But 20 minutes later, as I once again raised my head from my berry-picking, grape-squashing exercise, I glanced over the bay. D’oh! (as Homer Simpson would say) - the wind had turned onshore. I could clearly see the tell-tale "wit perdjies" on the horizon heading towards shore. In a few minutes the perfectly groomed waves would be destroyed. Deflated, I carried on with the task at hand. Then, another 20 minutes later it hit me - SEELUG! It suddenly felt like someone was spraying my sun-baked face with a cool, misty oyster extract - a fragrance of fresh, salty, damp bamboo… So whilst the onshore might be wrecking waves, it simultaneously pushes the hot air inland and hugs every Chardonnay plant in that vineyard with a fragranced coolness which not many vines ever experience. Seelug - A fresh, elegantly oaked, limey and delicious Chardonnay - more to the serious side of things." - Winemaker's notes
Alheit Vineyards Fire by Night 2023
"2023 This vintage really captures the beauty of the Paardeberg: clean air, mountain herbs,tight and pithy, sprung with coiled up energy, spring water purity, an impression finely etched in granite. The nose shows some lovely flinty reduction, green citrus, and thatch. The palate is high energy, high fidelity, pure and racy. The finish is bracing and long." - Winemaker's notes
Alheit Vineyards Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023.
"We had lovely moderate temperatures during the ripening season, punctuated by regular rain. The Chenin blanc in particular starting developing beautiful dry noblerot (botrytis) several days before picking. We always have some noble rot in Hemelrand, but the amount and the quality thereof in 2023 separates this vintage from all previous. The nose shows the classic stone fruit and exotic flavours that we expect from Vine Garden, but then there’s dried orange peel and apricot from the noble berries. The palate is full and quite powerful. The usual high acidity carries the whole wine to along, tapered finish." - The Winemaker's notes
Alheit Vineyards Hereafter Here 2023
"As with the 2022 wine, reasonably good yields meant that we had some old vineyard wine available to bolster the young vine fruit that this wine was created for. The wine is more subtle and more mellow in personality that previous vintages. It shows some yellow fruit and sweet herbs on the nose, quite pretty but not loud. The palate is savoury for a Chenin. It seems like a slow-moving deep-water swell of flavour that builds and falls in its own time. This wine will be a great companion at the dinner table." - Winemaker's notes
Keermont Amphitheatre 2016
"The 2016 Keermont Amphitheatre, a Bordeaux blend matured in seasoned oak for 20 months, has a pretty, floral bouquet with raspberry, wild strawberry and a very light lavender scent that percolates through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, fine acidity, decent structure and grip with a lightly spiced finish. You could drink this now, but it will age in bottle for a decade or more." - Neal Martin, Vinous
Keermont Syrah 2018
"The "basic" Keermont Syrah uses grapes from the Topside, Steepside and Sweetwater vineyards and is something of a bargain given its quality. Paired with 10% Mourvèdre, this is alluringly perfumed and exotic, with lavender and wild thyme aromas, bramble, pomegranate and black cherry flavours and supple tannins." - Tim Atkin MW
Keermont “Pondokrug” Cabernet Franc 2018
"I love Cabernet Franc", says Alex Starey, and you can see why when he produces wines that are as good as this single vineyard expression from Stellenbosch Mountain. Perfumed, stylish and well crafted, it has the elegance and precision of its cooler site, good underlying structure and classic black cherry, bay leaf and pencil shaving notes." Tim Atkin MW
Keermont Topside Syrah 2018
"Syrah lovers could spend a long time discussing the relative merits of Alex Starey's single parcel Syrahs. I have a very slight preference for Topside in 2018, partly because its cooler terroir on Stellenbosch Mountain was well suited to the drought conditions of the vintage. Restrained, focused and built to age in bottle, it has sage and oregano perfume, savoury tannins, refreshing acidity and minerality and flavours of plum, raspberry, red cherry and tobacco leaf." - Tim Atkin MW
Keermont Steepside Syrah 2018
"It's good to see a top Cape Syrah released with a little bottle age, especially when it’s as good as this one from a warm, north-facing site on clay soils. Complex, dense and voluptuous, it has garrigue and tarragon aromas, understated oak and flavours of cooked meat, tapenade, damson and blackberry. Superb." - Tim Atkin MW
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Falkirk Grenache 2021
Anwilka Red Blend 2019
"The 2019 Anwilka is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Syrah. The nose opens with subtle Syrah notes of red peppercorn and smoked meats before moving to dusty red and black fruit aromas. Full-bodied, layered and fresh, the palate reveals the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, with soft herbal essences, bitter black tea and delicate olive notes. Graphite and pencil shavings follow across the mid-palate. The wine continues to unwind over the long lingering, mineral-laced, food-friendly finish. This rested for 20 months in all French oak, 50% of which was new, before being bottled." - Anthony Mueller, The Wine Advocate
Anwilka Red Blend 2018
"The 2018 Anwilka offers a delightful refinement and finesse, wafting with layers of dusty red fruit, oak and elegant red flowers. Medium to full-bodied, the palate provides balanced tannins with lively acidity that lingers across the mid-palate through the ever-evolving finish without showing any greenness. Give it a try." - Anthony Mueller, The Wine Advocate
Anwilka Red Blend 2013
"The 2013 Anwilka is a blend of 62% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Petit Verdot. It has an attractive raspberry coulis and crushed strawberry bouquet with well-integrated oak. The palate is smooth on the entry with supple red berry fruit laced with bay leaf and clove, leading to a very composed finish that seems more elegant and refined than previous vintages. Bon vin!" - Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
Anwilka Red Blend 2006
