A month ago, we released the 2020 Télégramme, baby brother to La Crau Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. We sold out within a day of sharing the offer and have since been inundated with questions around the flagship wine. It’s time for the main event. Here is the highly anticipated 2020 vintage of Vieux Télégraphe’s La Crau Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The diverse terroir of the plateau known as La Crau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is widely recognised as the appellation’s ultimate grand cru vineyard site. The Brunier family has been producing wine from parcels here for over 100 years. It all began with Hippolyte Brunier and his less-than-one-hectare-vineyard planted at one of the highest points in between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bédarrides, on a stony plateau called La Crau.
Vieux Télégraphe’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau cuvée is produced from, on average, 70-year-old vines and is normally a blend of around 65% Grenache noir, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre and the balance made up of Cinsault and Clairette mostly.
Grapes are picked by hand and undergo two stages of sorting in the vineyard, and a third sorting at the cellar. Grapes are partially de-stemmed and following fermentation, the wine is matured for up to 22 months in 60-hectolitre French oak foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, La Crau is released from the winery two years later.
Vieux Télégraphe La Crau will most certainly reward time in bottle. It comes packaged in original wooden cases of 6 bottles – the perfect format for setting the wine down to mature further. Feel free to request a loose bottle or two in addition if you wish to try the wine now. You can have a lot of fun pairing it with food as Châteauneuf-du-Pape is quite flexible in this regard. The style of wine, in general, simply suits so much of today’s Mediterranean-influenced cooking. Furthermore, the fact that new oak is not commonly used means the wines can be enjoyed alongside an even broader range of lighter dishes which are either vegetable based or incorporate the likes of fish, veal and poultry.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
93-95 pts. Wine Advocate
94 pts. Vinous
”…about 30% whole bunches used in the ferments. Marked by ripe cherries and hints of complex garrigue notes on the nose, it’s full-bodied but also really elegant, with fine-grained, silky tannins, ample concentration and a long, surprisingly crisp finish.”
93-95 points, Joe Czerwinski for Wine Advocate (May 2022)
”…displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age.”
94 points, Nicolas Greinacher for Vinous (April 2023)