BLANKbottle Smaug the Magnificent 2017

"The 2019 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Arinto, from mostly 20+-year-old vines at 600 meters in altitude, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. An elegant and lovely Contraste, it's a little lean but fresh, pure and lively. The fruit is lifted by the acidity and the flavors linger nicely. This is enticing for its balance and its youthful freshness. The only thing that might hold this back is the question of whether it stays at this level for most of its useful life. Can it develop? I won't be surprised if it lasts a decade from the vintage date, more or less, but whether it is this good in 2025 might be a different question. We'll see. It drinks great now, and today you'll like it better than the score suggests. It will also be great next summer." - Mark Squires, The Wine Advocate