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Salvioni Rosso di Montalcino 2017
- Great Domaines
all ratings out of 100 points.
2022 - 2030
1800l-2200hl slavonian oak for 24 months
How do you make a wine that Robert Parker describes as “one of the benchmark wines for the region”? Giulio Salvioni, a modern-day Tuscan traditionalist, believes the secret lies in treating wine as you would people. Giulio’s argument is that “Brunello is a gentleman who always shows up wearing a tuxedo, and demands respect.”
The estate’s holdings are small - only 4 hectares. This allows him to have close relationship with the fruit. His single south-facing plot is kissed by the sun each afternoon, and kept in check by the 420 meter altitude. Giulio is devoted to his Sangiovese vines, all legally registered Brunello. His yearly yields are purposefully kept low, even though regulation allows for a harvest twice the size.
Salvioni’s wines are as rare as hen’s teeth. His exclusive releases of 12 000 - 15 000 bottles every year has given birth to a loyal cult following worldwide. Tracking down the cellar on our visit to Montalcino was tricky. Resorting to sign-language in a local wine shop, we gratefully got the address we wanted. The humble cellar is unusually located in the middle of the town of Montalcino, a fair distance from his vineyards.
Alessia, Giulio’s daughter, is responsible for escorting one around the tiny cellar. Here tradition is king. Maceration is as long as 30 days and wines are aged in 2000 litre Slovanian oak casks. Aging can be as short as the required two years, or even longer if the vintage allows for it. Giulio’s standards are high and like only a handful of winemakers around the world, undeserving vintages are stripped of their status as Brunello, and only a Rosso di Montalcino is made. 2002 was one of those vintages.