Burgundy

There is no more heart-warming sight than that of the almost unbroken vista of vines carpeting the lower slopes of Côte d'Beaune. One drives, in a leisurely but careful way (the RN74 is notoriously dangerous) from Dijon to Beaune, a route punctuated by the most evocative signs to villages, the names of which sound like a roll call of the most voluptuous red wines of the world.

Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée...The vineyards themselves form a rhythmic pattern of parallel lines changing from the brown of winter, the light, bright green of the spring and early summer, the lush green of September and autumn russet after the harvest: one huge park more akin to a series of expensive individually-owned allotments. Beyond the ancient walled town of Beaune, the expanse of vineyards continues, the view to the right being broader, the slopes further from the main road. But the rows of vines are endless, and the list of famous village names goes on: Volnay, Pommard, Meusault, Puligny, Chassagne...

It is within these villages that growers live and maintain their cellars. Their way is quite different to Bordeaux. The countryside is different. The vinyards of Bordeaux, particularly Médoc, are smugly self-contained; each has its own Château and chai within the confines of the property; each property has one resident or absentee proprietor. In Burgundy there is no equivalent to the 'château' of Bordeaux. The word 'Domaine' is proprietorial yet more nebulous - a personal or société anonyme estate made up of small vineyard parcels, often mere strips of vines, individually tended, the wines very individually made.

There is no other wine on earth as elevating as a great Burgundy: richness of 'robe', intensity of bouquet, a velvety liquid that expands the mouth, reaching - flooding - the head and heart. This sort of wine does not make itself. It is made by individuals, by stalwart characters dedicated to making the best wine their well-tended vines can produce following an invariably unpredictable growing season. Burgundy is easy to drink, speciously easy to criticise, and fiendishly difficult to make.

Explore the villages and domaines and see Burgundy with new eyes and drink it with a greater understanding and renewed pleasure.

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